Why Is My Blanket Flower Not Blooming? 5 Proven Fixes for Gorgeous Blooms

If you're staring at a leafy Gaillardia with no flowers on blanket flowers, don't panic — I've been there more times than I can count. The most common reason? The plant ran out of steam after a spectacular bloom season. These tough perennials put everything into flowering, then crash the next year. But there's also a good chance you're being too nice — overwatering and overfertilizing are surprisingly common mistakes I see in gardens. The fix is usually simple: cut back on care, check your sunlight, and look for signs of aster yellows. Let me walk you through exactly what to check and how to get those bright striped petals back.

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• 1、Help, My Blanket Flower Won't Bloom This Year
• 2、Other Reasons for Blanket Flower Not Blooming
• 3、The Surprising Truth About Poor Soil and Drought Tolerance
• 4、Planting and Care for Long-Lasting Blooms
• 5、Common Misconceptions About Blanket Flowers
• 6、Quick Checklist for Getting Blanket Flowers to Bloom
• 7、The Hidden Impact of Pruning Timing
• 8、How Climate Zone Affects Your Blanket Flower Blooms
• 9、Soil Chemistry and Fertilizer Myths
• 10、What About Pests That Steal Your Blooms?
• 11、So Why Do We Keep Babying Them?
• 12、FAQs

Blanket flowers — or Gaillardia — look a lot like daisies, with bright striped petals in yellow, orange, and red. They're native North American plants, closely related to sunflowers. These tough perennials don't stick around forever, but while they're alive, they pump out loads of pretty blooms even in rough conditions. So when you see no flowers on Gaillardia, it's natural to feel a little frustrated. I've been there myself, staring at a leafy plant with zero color — trust me, I get it. Let's walk through what might be going wrong and how to fix it.

Help, My Blanket Flower Won't Bloom This Year

Understanding the Energy Drain Cycle

You know that feeling when you've worked too hard and just crash? That's exactly what happens to your blanket flower. These plants can bloom from spring straight through fall, but if they go all-out one year, they often run out of steam the next.

Here's the thing — Gaillardia puts every ounce of its energy into those spectacular flowers. When a blanket flower won't bloom, it's usually because the plant exhausted itself the previous season. I see this all the time in gardens where people let their flowers go wild without any trimming. The plant produces so many blooms that it fails to store enough reserves for basal buds — the foundation for next year's growth. Think of it like running a marathon without eating enough beforehand. You might finish strong, but you'll pay for it later. The plant literally runs out of energy to produce next season's buds. In my experience, if this happens, expect a quiet year followed by another burst of color the season after. It's a natural cycle, but you don't have to just accept it.

How to Prevent the Off-Year Phenomenon

Start cutting back flowering stems in late summer. This forces the plant to redirect energy toward future growth instead of keeping old blooms alive.

I recommend grabbing your pruners around mid-August and trimming spent flower stalks down to the basal foliage. This signals to the plant that it's time to focus on root and bud development, not seed production. Don't be shy about it — cut back about one-third of the stems at a time over a few weeks. I've done this in my own garden and saw a huge difference the following spring. The plants came back fuller and bloomed earlier than neighbors who didn't trim. You'll also want to deadhead regularly during the growing season. Every time you snip off a faded flower, you're telling the plant to produce another one instead of going to seed. It's a small effort with big rewards.

Other Reasons for Blanket Flower Not Blooming

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The Overcare Problem — Too Much Love Hurts

Believe it or not, blanket flowers thrive on neglect. Give them too much water or fertilizer, and they'll sulk instead of bloom. These plants evolved in tough, dry conditions.

I've lost count of how many gardeners I've talked to who overwater their Gaillardia thinking it needs pampering. The truth? Blanket flowers actually perform best in poor soil with minimal watering. When you give them rich soil or regular fertilizer, they focus on growing lush leaves instead of flowers. It sounds backward, I know, but native plants like this one adapted to survive in lean conditions. In my garden, I planted a batch in a dry, rocky spot that gets full sun — and they bloomed like crazy. Meanwhile, another batch in richer soil with regular water just sat there looking green but flowerless. The lesson is simple: tough love works. Only water during extended droughts, and never add fertilizer. If you've been babying your plants, try backing off completely for a few weeks. You might be surprised at the results.

Aster Yellows — A Hidden Threat

Sometimes a disease transmitted by aphids causes blanket flower not blooming issues. Called aster yellows, it keeps flower buds green and closed. Other signs include yellowing leaves and distorted growth.

If you notice your Gaillardia buds staying green and never opening, or if the leaves start turning yellow and looking weird, aster yellows might be the culprit. Unfortunately, there's no treatment for this disease. I've had to pull out entire plants before because of it. The best approach is removal and destruction of affected plants — don't compost them, since that can spread the disease to other areas of your garden. Aster yellows spreads through leafhoppers, which pick it up from infected weeds like dandelions. Keep your garden clean of weeds to reduce the risk. I've found that planting Gaillardia in well-ventilated areas also helps, since good airflow discourages the insects that spread this problem. Prevention really is your only defense here.

The Surprising Truth About Poor Soil and Drought Tolerance

Why Lean Conditions Produce More Blooms

You might think rich soil equals more flowers. With blanket flowers, the opposite is true. Poor soil actually triggers more blooming — it's the plant's survival mechanism.

Here's how it works: when Gaillardia grows in fertile soil, it feels safe and puts energy into leaf and stem growth. But in lean, sandy, or rocky soil, the plant senses stress and rushes to reproduce — which means more flowers. I've seen this firsthand in gardens where plants in gravelly soil outperform those in amended beds. The key is to plant Gaillardia in full sun with well-draining soil that's on the poor side. Don't add compost or organic matter. If your soil is naturally rich, consider mixing in sand or gravel to lean it out. You'll get more blooms with less effort — it's a win-win. Just make sure the drainage is good, because wet roots are the fastest way to kill a blanket flower.

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The Overcare Problem — Too Much Love Hurts

How often should you water? Less often than you think. Established blanket flowers can handle weeks without water and still produce blooms.

I water my Gaillardia about once every two to three weeks during dry spells — and that's it. Overwatering not only reduces blooms but can cause root rot, which kills the plant. The trick is to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, water deeply. If it's still moist, leave it alone. In my experience, blanket flowers that get too much water develop yellow leaves and stop flowering altogether. During rainy seasons, you might not need to water at all. The plant's deep taproot helps it access moisture far below the surface. I've seen Gaillardia survive droughts that killed other perennials — they're genuinely tough customers. If you're growing them in pots, be even more careful, because containers dry out slower than garden beds.

Planting and Care for Long-Lasting Blooms

Choosing the Right Location and Timing

You can't just stick a blanket flower anywhere and expect magic. Location matters more than almost anything else. Full sun — at least six hours of direct light daily — is non-negotiable.

I always tell people to pick the hottest, sunniest spot in their garden for Gaillardia. These plants are native to prairies and open fields, so they crave intense light. If you plant them in shade or even partial shade, you'll get tall, floppy stems with very few flowers. The best time to plant is spring after the last frost, but fall planting works too in milder climates. Space them about 12 to 18 inches apart so air can circulate freely. Crowded plants are more prone to disease and produce fewer blooms. I've also found that planting in raised beds or slopes improves drainage naturally. If your garden has heavy clay soil, build a small mound for each plant to keep the roots from sitting in water. A little extra effort at planting time pays off for years.

Deadheading and Reseeding for Ongoing Color

You might wonder: do I really need to deadhead? Yes — unless you want the plant to reseed naturally. Deadheading prolongs the blooming season by weeks.

Let me break this down simply. Each time you remove a spent flower, the plant responds by producing more buds. Regular deadheading can extend your bloom season from late spring into early fall. I deadhead my Gaillardia about once a week during peak season, snipping the stem just above the next set of leaves. But here's a twist — blanket flowers are relatively short-lived perennials, often only lasting about two to three years. To keep them going, let a few flowers go to seed each year. The seeds will drop and grow new plants, giving you a continuous supply of blooms. I let about one-quarter of my plants go to seed while deadheading the rest. This balance gives me both long-lasting flowers and self-sown replacements. Plus, the seed heads provide winter interest for birds — it's a nice bonus.

Common Misconceptions About Blanket Flowers

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The Overcare Problem — Too Much Love Hurts

Because blanket flowers look like daisies, people treat them the same way. That's a mistake. Daisies like rich soil and regular water — Gaillardia hates both.

I've seen gardeners fertilize their blanket flowers with the same schedule they use for their daisies, and the results are predictable — lots of green leaves, almost no flowers. Blanket flowers need a completely different approach. They thrive on neglect, poor soil, and drought. If you're used to pampering your flowers, Gaillardia will challenge your habits. The best advice I can give is to plant them and then mostly ignore them. Check on them occasionally, trim spent blooms, and remove any diseased plants. But don't fuss, don't feed, and don't water unless absolutely necessary. This hands-off approach is exactly what produces the best displays. I've learned this the hard way — my first year growing blanket flowers, I watered and fertilized like crazy and got almost nothing. The next year, I left them alone and they exploded with color.

They're Not Invasive — But They Spread

Some people worry about blanket flowers taking over their garden. They self-seed, yes, but they're not aggressive invaders. You can easily control their spread.

In my experience, Gaillardia spreads gently through seeds and underground runners, but it's not like mint or bamboo that takes over everything. You can manage the spread by deadheading before seeds form or by pulling out unwanted seedlings in spring. The self-seeding habit is actually a benefit, since individual plants don't live long. Letting them reseed ensures you always have new plants coming up. I recommend letting them naturalize in a sunny border or meadow garden. They'll create a lovely patch of color that renews itself each year with minimal effort on your part. Just be aware that hybrid varieties might not come true from seed — the offspring can look different from the parent. If you want consistency, stick with species types like Gaillardia aristata or Gaillardia pulchella.

Quick Checklist for Getting Blanket Flowers to Bloom

The Five-Step Recovery Plan

If your blanket flower won't bloom, here's what to check first. Follow this quick checklist to diagnose and fix the problem.

Step 1: Check sunlight. Does your plant get at least six hours of direct sun? If not, move it. Step 2: Evaluate watering. Have you been watering too much? Let the soil dry out completely. Step 3: Stop fertilizing. If you've been feeding your plants, stop immediately. Step 4: Look for disease. Check for yellow leaves, green buds that won't open, or distorted growth — that could be aster yellows. Step 5: Assess age. Is your plant more than three years old? Older Gaillardia naturally slow down. I keep a garden journal and note when each plant was installed — it helps me know when to replace older specimens. If you've gone through all five steps and still see no flowers, consider that your plant might be in its off-year cycle. Give it one more season before giving up. Patience really is part of the process with these plants.

When to Replace Your Gaillardia

Blanket flowers aren't permanent. They typically last two to three years before declining. Knowing when to replace them saves you frustration.

I usually replace my Gaillardia every three years to keep the display strong. Signs that it's time to replace include a woody center, sparse foliage, and fewer blooms each year. The good news is that blanket flowers are easy to grow from seed, so you can start new plants indoors in late winter and set them out in spring. Or you can buy young plants from a nursery for instant color. I prefer to start a few seeds each year so I always have replacements ready. This way, when an old plant fades, I can pull it out and pop in a fresh one without any gap in the garden. Think of blanket flowers as short-term investments that deliver huge returns while they last. Plan for turnover, and you'll never be disappointed when an individual plant calls it quits.

So don't stress if your blanket flower won't bloom this year. Check the basics — sun, water, soil, disease, and age — and you'll usually find the answer. With a little patience and the right care, those bright striped petals will be back before you know it.

I've spent more hours than I'd like to admit staring at a blanket flower patch that just wouldn't cooperate. You plant them, you wait, and then — nothing but green. It's frustrating, sure, but it's also fixable. Let me share what I've learned from my own mistakes and from helping other gardeners figure out their Gaillardia problems.

The Hidden Impact of Pruning Timing

Why Your Spring Trim Might Be Backfiring

Most gardeners prune in spring. With blanket flowers, that timing can actually delay or prevent blooms. You're cutting off the buds that formed the previous fall.

Here's something I wish someone had told me years ago: Gaillardia starts setting flower buds in late autumn for the next season. When you prune them back hard in early spring, you're literally snipping away all those potential blooms. I used to do this every March, thinking I was cleaning things up, and then wondered why my plants stayed green until August. The trick is to leave the old stems standing through winter and only trim them back once you see new growth emerging from the base in spring. Then cut the old stalks down to about six inches — you'll preserve those precious buds and get flowers weeks earlier. I switched to this method three years ago and my Gaillardia now starts blooming by late May instead of July. It's one of those small changes that makes a massive difference.

Should You Cut Back in Fall or Spring?

So what about fall pruning? It's generally a bad idea for blanket flowers. Leave the stems standing until spring for best results.

I know it's tempting to tidy up your garden in autumn — I used to do it every year. But blanket flowers benefit from keeping their old growth through winter. The dried stems help protect the crown from cold damage and provide habitat for beneficial insects. Plus, those seed heads feed birds when food gets scarce. If you absolutely can't stand the look of dead stems, cut them back to about 12 inches instead of ground level. That way, you're keeping some protection while reducing the messy appearance. In my experience, plants left uncut through winter come back stronger and bloom earlier than those I trimmed to the ground. Nature knows what she's doing — sometimes we just need to get out of her way.

How Climate Zone Affects Your Blanket Flower Blooms

The Cold Climate Challenge

You might be dealing with a climate issue. Blanket flowers are hardy in zones 3 through 10, but performance varies wildly. Cold winters can damage the crown and reduce blooms.

If you live in zone 5 or colder, your Gaillardia faces a tougher battle. I've talked to gardeners in Minnesota and Maine who struggle with winter kill — the crown freezes and the plant comes back weak or dies entirely. The solution is to apply a light mulch of straw or leaves after the ground freezes, not before. Timing matters here because mulching too early can trap heat and encourage rot. I recommend waiting until temperatures consistently stay below freezing at night, then adding about two inches of loose mulch. Remove it gradually in spring as new growth appears. Another trick I've seen work well is planting Gaillardia in raised beds or on slopes where cold air drains away. Don't plant them in low spots where frost settles — that's a recipe for disappointment. If your winters are harsh, also consider choosing hardier species like Gaillardia aristata, which handles cold better than the hybrid varieties.

The Heat and Humidity Struggle

Hot climates bring their own problems. High humidity and intense heat can cause fungal issues that stop blooming. But blanket flowers can thrive if you manage airflow.

I live in a region with hot, humid summers, and I learned quickly that spacing is everything. Give each plant at least 18 inches of breathing room to prevent powdery mildew and other fungal diseases that suppress flowering. Water at the base of the plant rather than overhead — wet leaves in humid conditions invite trouble. I've also found that afternoon shade in scorching climates (zones 8 and above) can actually help, as long as the plant still gets six hours of morning sun. The intense afternoon heat can stress the plant and reduce bloom production. If you're in a hot climate, consider planting Gaillardia where they get shade from about 2 PM onward. This isn't ideal for cooler zones, but in extreme heat, it makes a real difference. One more tip: avoid planting them next to walls or pavement that radiate heat at night, since that can stress the roots.

Soil Chemistry and Fertilizer Myths

The Real Problem with Nitrogen

Most fertilizers are high in nitrogen. Nitrogen pushes leaf growth at the expense of flowers. That's why your blanket flower looks lush but stays green.

I've seen this mistake more than any other. Gardeners see a plant that's not blooming and think "it needs food." So they add a balanced fertilizer or something high in nitrogen, and the plant responds by growing huge, dark green leaves — but zero flowers. Blanket flowers actually prefer low-fertility conditions, and excess nitrogen is the fastest way to stop them from blooming. If you've been using any kind of fertilizer, stop immediately. I never fertilize my Gaillardia — not once, not ever. They get all the nutrients they need from the soil, and they bloom better for it. If your soil is truly terrible, a light application of bone meal (which is high in phosphorus, not nitrogen) can help, but I'd still recommend skipping it. Think of blanket flowers as the minimalist's plant — they do best with less.

Soil pH and Bloom Production

You probably haven't thought about soil pH. Blanket flowers prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil, around 6.0 to 7.0. Extreme pH levels can reduce nutrient availability and stop blooms.

Here's a fact that surprised me: soil pH affects how well plants can absorb nutrients, even if those nutrients are present. If your soil is too alkaline (above 7.5) or too acidic (below 5.5), your Gaillardia might struggle to access the phosphorus it needs for flower production. I tested my garden soil a few years ago and found it was slightly alkaline at 7.8 — and my blanket flowers were underperforming. Adding elemental sulfur or organic matter like peat moss brought the pH down to 6.8, and the difference was dramatic. You can buy a simple soil test kit at any garden center for about ten dollars. If you discover your soil is way off, adjust it gradually. Don't try to fix pH overnight — that can shock the roots. A slow approach works better and gives more consistent results. Most garden soils in North America fall within the acceptable range, so this is usually only an issue if you're working with naturally extreme soil types.

What About Pests That Steal Your Blooms?

The Sneaky Aphid Problem

Aphids don't usually kill plants. But they weaken them enough to reduce blooming. A heavy infestation can stop flower production entirely.

I've walked past my Gaillardia many times without noticing the small clusters of aphids hiding on the undersides of leaves. These tiny insects suck sap from the plant, stealing energy that would otherwise go to flower production. You might not see the aphids themselves, but you'll notice sticky honeydew on the leaves or black sooty mold growing on that honeydew. If you spot aphids, blast them off with a strong stream of water from your hose. That's usually enough to handle light infestations. For heavier problems, insecticidal soap works well and won't harm beneficial insects like bees and ladybugs. Ladybugs are your best friends here — they eat aphids like candy. I've stopped using chemical sprays in my garden entirely because they kill the good bugs along with the bad ones. A healthy garden has a natural balance that keeps most pest problems in check.

Do Deer and Rabbits Affect Blooming?

You might wonder if animals are to blame. Deer and rabbits don't usually target blanket flowers heavily, but they can damage buds. That damage reduces your bloom count.

In my experience, deer generally leave Gaillardia alone — the fuzzy leaves and somewhat bitter taste don't appeal to them. But rabbits are a different story. I've watched rabbits nibble young flower buds right off the stems, especially in spring when food is scarce. If you notice clean, angled cuts on stems or missing buds, rabbits are likely the culprits. A simple chicken wire cage around young plants during spring protects the buds until the plants are established. Once the plants are larger and producing multiple stems, the damage becomes less noticeable. I've also used motion-activated sprinklers to scare rabbits away, and they work surprisingly well. Don't assume animal damage is the problem until you see evidence — most bloom failures have other causes. But if you live in an area with heavy rabbit pressure, take precautions early in the season.

So Why Do We Keep Babying Them?

I've asked myself this question many times. We're conditioned to think that plants need constant care, but blanket flowers prove that wrong. The more you fuss, the less they bloom. It's a hard lesson for someone like me who loves tending to plants. But I've learned to trust the process. Gaillardia evolved to thrive in tough conditions — poor soil, drought, full sun, and minimal intervention. When you recreate those conditions, the plant rewards you with months of vibrant color. If you give it comfort, it gets lazy. Embrace the neglect approach and watch your blanket flowers explode with blooms. I promise, it's the most satisfying gardening lesson you'll learn.

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FAQs

Q: Why does my blanket flower have no flowers this year after blooming so well last season?

A: This is one of the most common frustrations I hear from gardeners, and I've dealt with it myself. The main culprit is what I call the energy drain cycle—when your Gaillardia puts everything into a massive bloom season, it basically runs out of reserves for next year's growth. Think of it like you working a double shift for a week straight; you're going to need a recovery period.

Your blanket flower produces those gorgeous striped blooms from spring through fall, and that takes a serious toll. If you let it go wild without any trimming, the plant fails to store enough energy in its basal buds—the foundation for next year's flowers.

Here's the good news: this is usually a one-year pause. Expect a quiet season followed by another burst of color the year after. To prevent it, start cutting back flowering stems in late summer, around mid-August.

I recommend trimming about one-third of the spent stalks at a time over a few weeks. This signals the plant to redirect energy toward bud development rather than seed production. I've done this in my own garden and saw a huge difference the next spring—the plants came back fuller and bloomed earlier than neighbors who didn't trim.

Regular deadheading during the blooming season also helps. Every time you snip a faded flower, you're telling the plant to produce another one instead of going to seed. It's a small effort with big rewards.

Q: Could overwatering or fertilizing be causing my blanket flower not blooming?

A: Absolutely, and this is a mistake I see all the time. Gaillardia is a native plant that evolved in tough, dry prairie conditions, so it actually thrives on neglect. When you give them too much water or fertilizer, they focus on growing lush leaves instead of flowers.

I've lost count of how many gardeners I've talked to who overwater their blanket flowers thinking they need pampering. The truth is that these plants perform best in poor, sandy soil with minimal watering.

In my own garden, I planted a batch in a dry, rocky spot that gets full sun—and they bloomed like crazy. Meanwhile, another batch in richer soil with regular water just sat there looking green but flowerless.

The lesson is simple: tough love works. Only water during extended droughts, and never add fertilizer. If you've been babying your plants, try backing off completely for a few weeks.

Check the soil moisture by sticking your finger about an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, water deeply. If it's still moist, leave it alone. Overwatering not only reduces blooms but can cause root rot, which kills the plant.

During rainy seasons, you might not need to water at all. The plant's deep taproot helps it access moisture far below the surface. If you're growing them in pots, be even more careful because containers dry out slower than garden beds.

Q: What disease causes blanket flower not blooming, and how do I spot it?

A: Aster yellows is a disease spread by leafhoppers that can cause your blanket flower buds to stay green and never open. Other signs include yellowing leaves and distorted growth. Unfortunately, there's no treatment for this disease, so I've had to pull out entire plants before because of it.

If you notice your Gaillardia buds staying green and never opening, or if the leaves start turning yellow and looking weird, aster yellows might be the culprit. The best approach is removal and destruction of affected plants—don't compost them, since that can spread the disease to other areas of your garden.

Aster yellows spreads through leafhoppers, which pick it up from infected weeds like dandelions. Keep your garden clean of weeds to reduce the risk. I've found that planting Gaillardia in well-ventilated areas also helps, since good airflow discourages the insects that spread this problem.

Prevention really is your only defense here. Check your plants regularly for signs of disease, especially during warm, humid weather when leafhoppers are most active. If you see any suspicious symptoms, act quickly—remove the affected plant and monitor nearby plants for signs of spread.

In my experience, catching it early is key. I've saved entire beds by removing just one or two infected plants before the disease had a chance to spread further.

Q: Why do my blanket flowers have fewer blooms when I give them rich soil and regular water?

A: This is a common misconception that I've seen trip up many gardeners. Blanket flowers actually perform better in poor, lean soil because it triggers a survival mechanism. When the plant feels stressed by tough conditions, it rushes to reproduce—and that means more flowers.

In rich, fertile soil, the plant feels safe and puts energy into leaf and stem growth instead of blooms. I've seen this firsthand in gardens where plants in gravelly soil outperform those in amended beds.

The key is to plant Gaillardia in full sun with well-draining soil that's on the poor side. Don't add compost or organic matter. If your soil is naturally rich, consider mixing in sand or gravel to lean it out.

You'll get more blooms with less effort—it's a win-win. Just make sure the drainage is good, because wet roots are the fastest way to kill a blanket flower.

Similarly, watering less often than you think is crucial. I water my Gaillardia about once every two to three weeks during dry spells, and that's it. Overwatering not only reduces blooms but can cause root rot, which kills the plant.

The trick is to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Stick your finger about an inch into the soil; if it feels dry, water deeply. If it's still moist, leave it alone. In my experience, blanket flowers that get too much water develop yellow leaves and stop flowering altogether.

Q: How do I get my blanket flower to bloom again after a year of no flowers?

A: I've been through this exact situation, and here's a five-step recovery plan that works. First, check sunlight—does your plant get at least six hours of direct sun? If not, move it to a sunnier spot. Second, evaluate watering—have you been watering too much? Let the soil dry out completely. Third, stop fertilizing—if you've been feeding your plants, stop immediately.

Fourth, look for disease—check for yellow leaves, green buds that won't open, or distorted growth, which could be aster yellows. If you see these signs, remove and destroy the affected plants. Fifth, assess age—is your plant more than three years old? Older Gaillardia naturally slow down, so it might be time to replace it.

I keep a garden journal and note when each plant was installed—it helps me know when to replace older specimens. If you've gone through all five steps and still see no flowers, consider that your plant might be in its off-year cycle. Give it one more season before giving up.

Patience really is part of the process with these plants. In the meantime, start cutting back flowering stems in late summer to force the plant to direct energy toward next year's growth. Regular deadheading during the blooming season also helps.

I also recommend letting some of your plants reseed naturally. Since blanket flowers are relatively short-lived perennials, often lasting only about two to three years, letting a few flowers go to seed each year ensures you always have new plants coming up. This balance gives you both long-lasting flowers and self-sown replacements.